Hot Spring

Monday H. and I headed out for a night at a hot spring in Oita. H isn't too keen on the whole hot-spring scene, unless we can stay overnight (rather than just have a soak) and unless we can get a private bath (usually they're communal). She found us a place tucked away in a steep, mountain valley that not only had private, outdoor baths but a special deal: about $100 per person per night, two meals included.

After a long drive and a few wrong turns, we finally found the place, and checked in. It was beautifully done up, with a single, six-tatami sitting/sleeping room; seperate washroom and toilet; and the outdoor bath, overlooking the mountainside opposite.

H. was knackered after her drive (she's the only one with an int'l licence), and so after drinking a cup of complementary tea, she got her head down for a couple hours before dinner. I tried out the bath. It was too hot for my comfort, but after an initial soak I spent the next hour or so with my legs dangling in and reading a book. The weather was perfect, and between the steam rising up from the bath, the cool, spring breeze and the small birds flitting about, all seemed right with the world.

Just before six I got dressed for dinner, and we made the short jaunt up to the dining room.

As usual for Japan, service was exemplary: staff greeted us by name as soon as we walked in the door, and we were shown directly to our table. The dining room was a long, low hall covered in tatami mats, where all the guests gathered for meals. We had a low table to ourselves, at which we kneeled and were treated to some half-dozen courses of delectables. H. wasn't drinking, but I couldn't resist ordering myself a bottle of potato shochu (kind of like a vodka), which I drank a third of, with hot water and lemon. As usual for us, we arrived before most of the other guests, and were the last to leave.

When we got back down to our room, our beds had been laid out, and soon after we arrived, my unfinished bottle was brought down in a basket with cup and more sliced lemon (hot water was already in the room). I had another couple of drinks while H. bathed, and then we crashed out.

I couldn't sleep more than a few hours, so got up in the middle of the night and sat on the bathroom floor reading. After dawn, I had another short bath, and we went up for another massive meal; rice, pickles, soup, three varieties of fish grilled at our table, tofu, etc. By ten we were checked out and making our way back to Kumamoto.

We made much better time on the way back, and so stopped in at a mall for some shopping. H. patiently waited while I picked out a new suit on sale, and then hunted down a shirt and tie to match. I may not make my flight home, but at least I'll be well-dressed!